Brewed with boiling water from the silver samovar, the tea was brought at any time of day by the provodnitsa assigned … More
Sarajevo has survived its 42-month siege. And to many citizens here, it is the return of the coffee cafes, of their smells and sounds, that says peace has arrived.
It was April, 2002. I contemplated my impending flight to Zagreb with Croatian Airlines with a sense of foreboding. Would … More
You sit in the cab of a dump truck heading through a pass in the Anti-Atlas Mountains. An American of … More
I am still eating as my husband asks the bartender where we should go for Irish music. I am … More
Travel Essay: In the summer of 1903, after taking his exam in historical law at Prague’s Charles University, twenty-year-old Franz … More